Fiesta! Haunts of Hemingway

The great American novelist and journalist Ernest Hemingway spent some of the best days and nights of his life in Madrid. Starting as a young aficionado of the bullfights, he returned as a foreign correspondent for dangerous reporting assignments during the Spanish Civil War, and later shared drinks around town with visiting Hollywood stars of the 1950s. Much of his best fiction was based on these experiences in Madrid and across Spain. This tour brings Hemingway’s Madrid to life. You will visit some of his favorite Madrid spots, hear stories from his life and times, and hit all the places the man himself would have taken us to. These include classic beer halls, elegant hotel lounges, cave-like basement bars, and the world’s oldest surviving restaurant. Many of these places were immortalized in his books, and most have barely changed since the author ate, drank, and wrote within their walls.

As a professional writer and a member of the prestigious El Ateneo literary society, your host has lived and breathed Madrid for over a decade. His work on the city’s culture and history includes published essays on Hemingway’s unique relationship with Madrid, making him perfectly placed to bring rich historical color and context to the author’s world here a century ago. You’ll trace the real-life footsteps behind some of Hemingway’s best-known fiction, while also exploring how his presence shaped local memory and identity — especially in the places that still feel like his Madrid. You’ll also make three food and drink stops at Hemingway’s own regular haunts: a vintage sherry bar, a bustling beer hall, and a landmark cocktail lounge where he set several short stories. Each venue has its own house specials — from hot croquettes and cold draft beer, to manchego with aged cask sherry, to late-night cocktails once favored by the man himself.

Stephen Phelan is a working journalist and Madrid resident whose writing on the city’s culture and history for a number of international publications. Stephen also covers the Madrid bar and food scene for publications ranging from Louis Vuitton Guides to the Sunday Times of London.

Comfortable walking shoes.