The Shinise of Old Tokyo

Journalist and photographer Toshiko takes you on a time-slip through centuries of Edo–Tokyo history, visiting businesses that have survived generations of upheaval — earthquakes, fires, and bombings. You'll visit shops and restaurants founded during this transitional period (perhaps even a sushi shop first opened in 1702), with stops along the way for a snack or light meal. Tokyo is a city that has been razed and rebuilt many times, by both manmade and natural disasters. This walking tour focuses on a part of Tokyo where businesses and traditions have persisted since the era when the city was known as Edo and home to the Shogun. This area is home to many shinise — family-run businesses that have operated continuously for generations, some tracing their roots to the 17th century. Japan's modern story begins after the fall of the Shogunate in the late 19th century, when the new Meiji government struggled to establish itself after centuries of isolation had left the country behind.

Forgotten among the ultra-modern landscape of one of the world's busiest metropolises, remnants of Japan's history as an isolated nation ruled by a warrior-class are still very much a part of Tokyo's modern identity. The Nihonbashi area, once considered the center of all of Japan, still plays an important role in preserving the shops and traditions of this ancient time. Several shops here are officially recognized as “shinise,” and continue to use traditional methods, recipes, and materials passed down through generations — making them custodians of living history. This tour highlights why these businesses matter beyond their longevity, offering a meaningful introduction to the cultural role of shinise in Japan today. Toshiko's insatiable curiosity as a journalist and keen eye as a photographer make her the perfect guide to lead you on a story through time, revealing locations, foods, and products that originated in Japan's Edo Period, and bringing you into the present.

Toshiko Sakurai is a storyteller with a camera and a passion for Tokyo’s history and architectural evolution. Her years of experience as a culture and travel journalist and photographer have taken her through a wide exploration of the city's hidden corners and all the places that make up Tokyo's fascinating character.

Comfortable walking shoes and weather-appropriate clothing. Cash for optional purchases at local shops as some may not take credit cards. Keep in mind, there's no pressure or obligation to buy anything from the shops you visit.