An Architectural Chronicle of the Eternal City

Rome’s ancient architecture conjures images of a glorious empire that once dominated the world. Yet, while marvels like the Colosseum and the Roman Forum form an essential itinerary for understanding the Eternal City’s rich past, the city's narrative extends far beyond crumbling stones and archaeological digs. 

It’s worth leaving the inner city behind to discover monuments representing pivotal moments in the city's evolution. From the ancient grandeur of the Appian Way to the surprising industrial archaeology of Centrale Montemartini and the contemporary dynamism of the MAXXI Museum, here are seven locations that offer unique perspectives on Rome's constant reinvention.

The Ancient Appian Way

One thing you can’t definitely say about the ancient Romans is that they stayed put. Not only did they expand their empire across vast territories, but they also built an extensive network of roads to connect it all. And among these roads, Via Appia Antica — the Ancient Appian Way. Rome’s most recent UNESCO World Heritage site — stands out as a true icon.

Built in 312 BC to link Rome with Capua in Campania, and later extended all the way to Bari, the Regina Viarum was the Roman equivalent of a major highway. Today, the Via Appia is a stunning 16 km stretch where nature and ancient ruins meet in a beautiful, almost magical embrace. The further you walk, the more it feels like you’ve stepped into a living museum, where Roman history and the quiet beauty of the countryside come together in a way that feels timeless.

More than just a road, the Via Appia is a journey through centuries of Roman history, still awe-inspiring today.

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The road was used for military marches, to quickly reach new colonies, for trade, and even for funerals. Along this ancient path, you’ll find the ruins of temples and tombs, nestled into sun-kissed soft green hills. If you're paying enough attention, you might even spot the deep grooves left in the stone by ancient chariot wheels. Yes, the Romans really knew how to leave a mark.

Getting there? Easy. Hop on bus line 118 from the Colosseum, Circus Maximus, or Piazza Venezia, and ride it all the way to the final stop at Appia / Villa dei Quintili. It's a smooth, scenic ride — no chariots required.

Read more: Why Visit Now: Rome

The Horti Lamiani

Ruins are not always found beneath the clear light of the sky. Rome is all about magical hidden corners, winding streets, and ancient ruins right beneath the ground. We tend to think that what's buried is dark, moldy, and inaccessible. Or, in a more glamorous light, it's the luxurious private gardens of emperors, with stunning frescoes and marble sculptures. That's exactly the case with the Museo del Ninfeo, an archaeological site tucked right under the lively, multicultural Piazza Vittorio, just around the corner from Termini Station.

The Horti Lamiani (from Lucio Elio Lamia, who constructed it) or Gods’ gardens were only discovered in 2021 during excavations for an underground parking lot. A link between the contemporary city and its millennia-old history, Museo del Ninfeo is the place to visit if you want to immerse yourself in the daily life of the emperors. Picture strolling among lions and peacocks, meditating in front of the monumental fountain of the nymphaeum (hence the name), or attending grand receptions with ambassadors from all Mediterranean lands in the marble-clad square.

“You have to imagine that here it was all gardens, fruits and animals. It was how the emperors managed to have a countryside life in the city centre of Rome” explained Silvia Fortunati, one of the archeologists who discovered the site and rebuilt an old affresco visible on one of the walls of the site, during the museum tour.

It may not be as big as the Musei Capitolini, but it’ll amaze you with how much history is packed into such a small space.

Santa Maria in Trastevere

When you step into the Piazzale di Santa Maria in Trastevere, the golden mosaics of the church catch the light, casting a warm glow over the fountain and the outdoor tables of nearby restaurants. Nestled in the heart of the famous Trastevere district, the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere is a hidden gem, rich in history and character.

Founded by Pope Callixtus as Rome's first Christian worship site, it’s said oil miraculously flowed from the ground here. Santa Maria in Trastevere reflects Rome’s ongoing transformation. Its foundation dates back to around 300 BC, and over time, it was rebuilt and expanded. In 1138, Pope Innocent II reconstructed it in Romanesque style using materials from the Baths of Caracalla, and Pope Eugene III later added a bell tower.

Santa Maria in Trastevere, a historical masterpiece in the heart of Rome.

S. Vidal

The square itself is equally alive, with the lively Bar San Callisto next to it, a gathering spot for locals. The wall facing the bar is frequently adorned with new graffiti, often reflecting the political climate of the country. If you're lucky, you'll catch by that wall some local musicians in action. Outside of tourist season, you'll still see residents sitting around the plastic tables, playing cards, and enjoying a sense of community that's hard to come by in a city bustling with visitors.

The Baroque Baldachin in St. Peter’s Basilica

A bit of Baroque gossip, you could say. It’s the rivalry between two artistic giants — Bernini and Borromini. Their famous feud is the stuff of legend, two geniuses sharing the stage in 17th-century Rome, and their story still echoes through the city’s squares like famous Piazza Navona. But where did it all begin? Over a canopy.

A true masterpiece of Baroque art, Bernini's Baldaquin stands majestically beneath the dome of St. Peter's Basilica.

Mitz

Bernini was tasked with creating the canopy for St. Peter’s Basilica, but, lacking experience with bronze, he was paired with Borromini. It was their first collaboration, and, as you might expect, it didn’t end well. The intertwined curls and golden details of the canopy now tell a tale of a centuries-old rivalry, a story that still resonates today.

Their competition took the form of litigations in front of the Pope, creating building in front of each other’s house to piss and it ultimately tragically ended with the suicide of one of the artists.

Read more: The Grand Tour of Italy: How Tourists Invented "La Bella Italia"

EUR, a Fascist Inheritance

As you may have guessed, Rome has a hard time forgetting its past. A past that, unfortunately, includes the dark years of dictatorship, a period when the country fell under the grip of fascism, which is estimated to have caused the deaths of millions of innocent citizens. 

Its expression is the EUR district. This area, conceived during Mussolini’s regime, is one of the most striking expressions of fascist ideology in architecture. Built with the intention of showcasing Italy’s strength, grandeur, and modernity, the EUR was meant to symbolize the power of fascism through imposing, monumental structures. The vast squares, sleek marble facades, and rigid geometrical lines of the district's buildings were designed to project authority and control.

Dubbed the "Square Colosseum," the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana stands as an imposing and striking example of Rationalist and Fascist architecture in Rome's EUR district.

Laventina

There are still some statues of putti — a figure in a work of art depicted as a chubby male child, usually naked and very often winged — doing the roman salute. Today, however, the EUR stands as a curious mix of past and present. The area has evolved, becoming a business center - house of many companies.

Yet, despite its modern-day role, the district remains a powerful reminder of fascism’s lasting imprint on the city’s landscape. If curious about seeing “the other side” of the dictatorship, visit the neighborhood Garbatella, house of the partigiani — the armed military part of the resistance movement. The streets here are lined with memorials such as commemorative plaques above doorways and golden cobblestones called “pietre d’inciampo” (stumbling blocks)  gleaming in the ground that the municipality just added.

The Gazometro

Rome’s Gazometro is a towering metal giant, 90 meters high and 60 wide, a relic of industry turned urban icon. It looms over the Ostiense district like a giant relic of the past, but in 2006, it got a dazzling makeover. Light artist Angelo Bonello transformed it into the Luxometro, wrapping it in ten kilometers of glowing cables and LED strips that pulsed in sync with music. Today, the music festival Video Città is something similar: music that takes place inside the skeleton of what once used to be a gasification unit.

Rising dramatically from the Ostiense district, Rome's Gazometro, once the largest gasometer in Europe, is an icon of industrial archaeology and a striking departure from the city's ancient ruins.

Only Fabrizio

Rome and artificial light have always had a complicated relationship. In the early 1800s, while other cities embraced gas lamps, Rome lagged behind. Conservative popes feared artificial lighting as a rebellious force, disrupting the divine rhythm of day and night. But by 1840, gas lamps arrived, powered by British coke. Electricity followed in 1886, then hydroelectric power, proving energy could travel without fading.

Ostiense became Rome’s industrial heart, hosting mills, factories, and the city’s main gas plant. In 1937, under Fascist rule, the grand Gazometro was built — Italy’s biggest, holding 200,000 cubic meters of gas. War bombings in 1944 weakened it, but during the postwar boom, it stood as a symbol of Rome’s unstoppable expansion.

Then came methane — cleaner, more efficient. The gasometers were shut down, leaving only their skeletal frames. The Gazometro no longer fuels the city, but it still dominates its skyline, a ghost of Rome’s industrial past.

Centrale Montemartini

Now picture this: majestic marble statues from the Roman Empire stand proudly beside enormous, rusted engines that once kept the city buzzing. It’s the Centrale Montemartini, tucked away in the lively district of Ostiense, one of Rome’s most unexpected yet captivating spots. Once an industrial powerhouse that powered the city, this fascinating space now serves as a bridge between ancient history and modernity. It's a curious blend, as if the past and the present have agreed to co-exist with an almost mischievous wink.

Housed within a beautifully preserved former thermoelectric power plant, classical sculptures and archaeological finds are displayed amidst the colossal engines, turbines, and machinery of the early 20th century.

365 Focus Photography

The juxtaposition invites you to ponder not just the beauty of ancient art, but also the rapid transformation of cities and technology through time. It’s the kind of place where you’ll find yourself contemplating a life-size marble Hercules while simultaneously admiring the raw power of 1920s machinery. For those willing to venture off the beaten path, Centrale Montemartini offers an experience that’s not only a visual treat but a charming reminder that history doesn’t have to be stuffy — it can be witty, industrial, and full of surprising connections. 

My personal favourite moment there: when they open the doors during the night. During what it’s called “la notte bianca” (the white night), an yearly event - the Saturday closest to the International Museum Day in may - where you can enter in every public museum during the night for just 1 euro!

Read more: Inside the Domus Aurea, Emperor Nero's Forgotten Residence

The MAXXI Museum

At this point, you know how hard it is for Rome to detach from the past. But at the MAXXI Museum, that’s exactly what happens—it’s a breath of modernity, right in the heart of the historic Flaminio district.

Built on the site of an old military barracks, the MAXXI project began with an international competition in 1998 to give the space new life. The winning design came from Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, and after more than 10 years of construction, the contemporary art museum opened its doors in 2010.

A striking vision of contemporary design in the Eternal City, the MAXXI - National Museum of 21st Century Arts stands as an architectural triumph by the late Zaha Hadid.

Marco Varro

The architecture of the MAXXI can be summed up in one word: immersion. The sweeping roof openings allow sunlight to pour onto the white walls, while the windows offer glimpses of the city beyond. It's a place where you’re immersed not only in contemporary art exhibitions but also in numerous workshops, events, and urban pathways for a stroll.