Nafplio's Modern Makers

I arrived in Nafplio after a week spent in the woods of Arcadia, a remote corner of the Peloponnese, synonymous with unspoiled nature since ancient times. After clambering through canyons and scaling mountains, I’m a little disheveled. This is why Nafplio, with its quiet elegance, sun-bleached walls, and sea-scented breezes, takes me somewhat by surprise.

Playing a strategic role since the Bronze Age, Nafplio was the first capital of Greece (albeit only for a year, from 1833 to 1834). Over time, not one but three fortresses rose to shield Nafplio – Acronauplia on the old town’s rocky peninsula holding off inland threats, Palamidi towering above the city with sweeping views of land and sea, and Bourtzi, a Venetian fortress on a tiny islet at the harbor mouth built to block enemy ships.

The narrow streets of Nafplio seem to absorb the crowds. The 911 steps that climb up to the Palamidi Fortress (built by the Venetians in the early 1700s) take the bravest to the rocky spur at a height of 216m and the numerous restaurants and shops offer refreshment even on the hottest days.

High atop the hill, the magnificent Palamidi Fortress offers a breathtaking panoramic over Nafplio's terracotta rooftops and the endless blue of the Argolic Gulf.

Ark Neyman

But I’m not just here to enjoy the town’s elegant holiday charm: I’m on a mission to meet the few remaining artisans still practicing true art forms amid the souvenir shops in the old town, too often overshadowed by the glitz of the shop windows.

Leaving the large car park on the seafront behind me, I pass through an imaginary door that leads into the old town where, among Venetian palaces and neoclassical residences, on Sofroni Street, a shop window immediately catches my eye: it’s the workshop of Anna Vlaserou, “Anna,” who makes objects using felting, a technique that involves working wool with water and soap to compact it. Anna learned this technique from her mother, but she has embellished it by combining inserts with silk to create truly unique shawls, dresses and fabrics. Some of her creations have been selected for exhibition at the Basil Papantoniou Foundation in Nafplio Peloponnesian Folklore Institute in Nafplio and the Benaki Museum Pireos in Athens.

I continue towards the center and pass the Basil Papantoniou Foundation, which, with its collection of over 50,000 objects including traditional Greek costumes, jewelry, toys, fashion archives and folk art, is a perfect additional stop on this tour.

The street then changes name and becomes Aggelou Terzaki, taking me to Σανδαλοποιείο Sandalworkshop. The shop was opened in 2005 by Gregory Vacho and his wife Sonia Tsertou, but the seeds of this passion are rooted in a much older tradition. From an early age, Gregory watched his grandfather, a shoemaker, and learned the trade, a tradition that was then carried on by his father. The workshop is also visible in the shop, where the young Panagioti is currently the shoemaker, continuing the tradition with models that are the result of continuous research. 

Beyond Nafplio's postcard-perfect views lies a vibrant world of true craftsmanship. Here, local artisans continue ancient traditions, creating unique pieces by hand.

Iryna Makukha

The work of Sonia and Gregory, who have studied international models as well as local ones, has led to the creation of an improved version of traditional women's sandals, but with flexible materials and a comfortable and durable sole. Among the most successful shoes is one inspired by Birkenstocks but with a much more durable sole designed to provide better back support. However, from this year onwards, it will no longer be possible to order them online: “the high demand was jeopardizing quality,” says Sonia, so anyone who wants a pair will now have to go to Nafplio. Not a terrible thing.

At this point, a stop in the vast Syntagma Square is a must, with its cafés, old mosque and Archaeological Museum, housed in a former Venetian warehouse, but under the summer sun I decide to follow the advice of a local friend and find refreshment in the tiny, kitsch and delicious Antica Gelateria di Roma, run by Marcello and Claudia Raffo. Mr. Marcello, the master ice cream maker, is a Roman who moved to Greece years ago and has made this place a temple of gastronomic craftsmanship. All the flavors look very tempting, but the chili chocolate gives me the kick I need to continue.

Another tiny shop awaits hidden in Piazza Filhellinon, which could easily go unnoticed amid the glittering shop windows and hustle and bustle of the area, is not to be missed. Mixed Colours is worth visiting not just for its beautiful creations, but also for the chance to meet Evdokia Houdalas Dragoumanou, an artist specializing in silk painting, and her daughter Margianna Dragoumanou, who has revisited this technique with contemporary graphics.

Syntagma Square, the beating heart of Nafplio, beautifully framed by historic architecture like the Old Parliament and the archaeological museum.

James Lindsay

In just one shop, you can see the development of a tradition that never loses touch with craftsmanship. There is something poetic about watching Evdokia's hands guide the brushes on the loom in her shop. She studied this silk painting technique in Lyon, France, and when she returned, she enriched it with decorative motifs traditionally embroidered on wedding dresses in the Greek islands. From there, she enriched her collections of scarves, dresses, men's ties and shirts with themes depicting mostly amphorae, statues, nautical themes and nature scenes.

When I ask her how she chooses her themes and colors, she tells me how she is guided by nature and tradition, which she has now mastered: “I start with the bird, which I know will be beige, then I imagine yellow flowers and continue painting the landscape.”

However, the shop also features scarves, swimwear, T-shirts and postcards in a more energetic style, where traditional themes take on the contemporary style that makes the Greek summer iconic. These are the works of Margianna, who grew up surrounded by her mother's paint pots and, after absorbing tradition and studying in England, returned with a fresh and elegant graphic style.

I am about to leave when Evdokia opens a small wardrobe in the corner of the shop and pulls out the masterpieces: a few hand-painted organza dresses and coats. They are unique garments that she shows me with shy pride and a kind of reverence for the object, which makes the artist's love for the work she has created almost palpable. These are tailor-made pieces, small works of art that are definitely worth admiring.

Turning now onto Dim. Ipsilanti Street, I come full circle, but the stops are not over yet. It is impossible not to notice the large, airy workshop and textile studio Agnythes, run by Maria Gonidou. Here, too, it is wonderful to see how generations test themselves with a form of craftsmanship that is transformed into art. Maria is one of the best weavers in Greece, with awards and participation in exhibitions both in Greece and abroad. She trained in the ancient techniques of manual wooden loom weaving and owns the only authentic example in Nafplio (one of the few remaining in Greece), which is displayed in all its archaic and poetic splendor in her shop. Here, natural fibers such as silk, wool, cotton, linen and cellulose acetate are woven into scarves, shawls and ties, maintaining a minimalist design enhanced by the choice of colors, obtained using traditional vegetable dyes extracted from plants such as daisies, onion skins, madder and saffron.

Bourtzi Fortress, floating like a jewel in the middle of Nafplio's harbor. This picturesque Venetian castle, once a prison and a government seat, now stands as an iconic, serene sentinel against the backdrop of the Argolic Gulf.

Trabantos

But even in this temple of traditional weaving, there is a corner with works of equal craftsmanship but in a more contemporary style. These are the creations of Maria's daughter, Nefeli. After studying 3D animation in Athens and attending drawing and weaving classes, she went to Iceland as an apprentice to Nordic weavers. On her return, she began to create real works of art, including a collection of dark and neutral-colored dresses, somewhat urban in style, which I fell in love with and which would turn heads in any capital city.

The last shop I come across is also an excuse to leave the city and explore the surrounding area. Silo Art has both a shop in the old town and a space that is difficult to describe about fifteen kilometers north, towards Mycenae. Here, Stelios D. Maragkos runs a space that creates art, offers workshops, recycles, restores and reshapes objects, infusing them with the sacred fire of art.

You can take part in clay workshops or soak up the creativity of the place at the Silo Café, admire a Trojan Horse or a Nike of Samothrace, stroll among vintage objects or copies of ancient statues, search for the perfect jar or come across a neoclassical door looking for a new home. In short, the shop is beautiful, but it will make you want to see more.

Before leaving Nafplio, don't forget to climb the clock tower and enjoy the view from above: it will stay with you along with the scent of leather sandals, the colors of silk painting and the softness of the fabrics.